Holding a wet, off-balance drum steady at 1,200 rpm is a genuine engineering problem, solved by four components working together. When a machine shakes, one of them has stopped doing its job — and two of the possible answers cost nothing at all.
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Every washing machine leaves the factory with bolts through the rear panel that lock the drum rigid so it cannot swing during transport. They must be removed before the machine is ever used.
Here is why this matters in Dubai specifically: people move often, and when a machine is moved between homes those bolts are frequently refitted to protect the drum in transit — then not taken out again at the other end. The machine then runs with no working suspension at all. It shakes violently, bangs hard, and sounds like something serious has broken.
Look at the back panel for three or four large bolts, often with plastic collars. If they are fitted and the machine is in use, that is your answer. Removing them takes a few minutes, costs nothing, and completely transforms the machine. This is comfortably the most common "serious fault" we are called to that turns out not to be a fault at all.

A drum full of wet laundry spinning at over a thousand revolutions a minute wants to move. Four components stop it, and a vibration problem is always one of them failing.
Counterweights. Heavy concrete or composite blocks bolted to the outer tub. They add mass so the assembly resists being thrown around. They rarely fail — but their mounting bolts can work loose over years of vibration, which produces a heavy knocking that people often mistake for bearings.
Suspension springs. These hold the drum assembly up inside the cabinet. A broken spring lets the drum hang low and off-centre, and you can usually see it sitting unevenly behind the door.
Shock absorbers. These damp the drum's movement — they turn oscillation into heat instead of letting it build. Worn absorbers are the single most common cause of a machine that walks across the floor: the drum swings and nothing slows it down, so the wobble compounds as the spin accelerates.
The feet. Four adjustable feet that must put the machine solidly on the floor with no rocking. Get these wrong and the other three components cannot do their jobs, no matter how good they are.
Most people adjust one foot until the rocking stops. That is not levelling, and it comes undone within weeks. This is the whole job, and it takes about ten minutes.

In the order we actually encounter them. The first three cost nothing to resolve.
No working suspension at all. Violent shaking and hard banging. Free to fix, and the most common non-fault we attend — particularly after a house move.
A duvet, bath mat or bundled towel to one side. Redistribute by hand and run a spin-only cycle. If it is smooth, there was no fault.
The machine rocks, or a foot has vibrated loose. Correct levelling with the locking nuts tightened transforms it.
The drum oscillates and nothing damps it, so the wobble builds as the spin accelerates. The most common genuine fault here, and an inexpensive part.
The drum hangs low and off-centre — often visible behind the door. Dramatic but straightforward to replace.
Heavy knocking as the counterweight shifts against the tub. Frequently mistaken for bearings, and often just needs re-torquing.
Contact transmits vibration into tiles and joinery. The movement may be normal; the noise is not. Clearance fixes it.
Balcony floors are deliberately laid with a slope to a drain, which is one of the hardest surfaces to stabilise a machine on.
Only if there is also a deep grinding that rises with spin speed and the drum rocks by hand. Different problem, much bigger job.

Two installation situations make vibration considerably harder to control, and both are common here.
Balcony and utility-alcove installations. Balcony floors are deliberately laid with a fall towards a drain, so the surface is not level by design. Getting a machine stable on a sloped floor takes more careful foot adjustment than a flat kitchen floor, and it is easy for a foot to work loose and put the machine back out of true.
Tight recesses with tiled walls. Where a machine is fitted into a narrow bathroom or utility recess, it often ends up touching a wall or a pedestal. Tiles are hard and resonant, so contact turns ordinary drum movement into a noise that sounds like a mechanical failure. In these installations, establishing a genuine clearance gap can matter more than any part.
Neither of these is a fault in the machine. Both are why we check the installation as carefully as the components — and why we re-level the machine before leaving on every visit, whatever we were originally called for.
First thing, every time. It is free to resolve and it accounts for a real share of these callouts.
A spin-only cycle on an even load, to separate a genuine fault from a lopsided duvet.
All four feet set with a level and the locking nuts tightened, plus clearance from walls and cabinets.
Shock absorbers, springs and counterweight mountings checked by hand and under power.
Drum play tested, so a suspension quote is never given for what is actually a bearing failure.
This page covers the movement. If you are trying to identify a sound, start with the noise guide.
Showing a code rather than just a symptom? Start here. Decode Your Error Code →
The noise decoder: telling grinding from knocking from rattling from humming. Start here if it is a sound rather than movement.
If there is grinding as well as movement, this is the page you need. Includes the drum-play test.
Worn suspension can make a machine abandon its spin entirely through unbalance detection.
Everything we repair on washing machines — all types and all brands.
Heat and sloped floors together make this the hardest install to stabilise.
Where clearance matters more than any component. Bathroom installations explained.
Almost certainly the transit bolts. Every new washing machine ships with bolts through the rear panel that lock the drum solid so it cannot swing during transport, and they must be removed before the machine is used. When a machine is moved between homes those bolts are frequently refitted to protect it — and then not taken out again. The result is a machine with no working suspension at all, which shakes hard and sounds alarming. It is completely free to fix.
Switch it off and pull it out enough to reach the four feet. Loosen the locking nut on each foot, then adjust the feet so the machine sits firmly on all four with no rocking — test by pushing each top corner in turn. Use a spirit level across the top from side to side and front to back. Then tighten each locking nut back up against the base, because a foot that is level but not locked will work loose again within weeks. Finally push the machine back leaving a small gap from the walls.
The springs hold the drum up; the shock absorbers damp its movement. Worn shock absorbers let the drum oscillate for too long, so the machine builds up a violent wobble as it accelerates into the spin and often walks across the floor. A broken spring is more dramatic — the drum hangs low and off-centre, and you can usually see it sitting unevenly behind the door. Both are replaceable and neither is among the expensive repairs.
A significant one. A machine on a solid, flat tiled floor transmits far less than the same machine on an uneven surface, and a balcony floor deliberately laid with a slope to a drain is one of the hardest places to keep a machine stable. Tight recesses matter too — where the machine sits close to tiled walls or a cabinet, vibration transmits into hard surfaces and sounds far worse than the actual movement warrants.
Yes, and it is worth ruling out before anything else. A single heavy item such as a duvet, a bath mat or a bundled towel sits to one side and the drum spins off-centre. Most machines detect this and either reduce the spin speed or abandon it, but some will still attempt it and shake hard. Open the door, spread the load evenly, remove any single heavy item and run a spin-only cycle. If it is smooth, there was never a fault.
When it comes with a deep grinding or rumbling noise that rises as the spin speed increases, and when you can rock the drum by hand with the power off. Suspension faults produce knocking, banging and movement without that grinding character. The distinction matters because suspension parts are inexpensive while bearings are the largest repair on the machine, so it is worth establishing which one you have before committing.
If the back panel is clear and the load is balanced and it still shakes, it is the suspension — and those are inexpensive parts. Send us a video of the spin.
Whether the machine has been moved recently, whether the transit bolts are out, and whether it rocks when you push the top corners. Those three answers narrow it immediately.
+971 50 988 6591
Daily, 8:00 AM – 6:00 PM
+971 50 988 6591
A ten-second video during the spin is ideal