Look your code up by what the machine is actually doing, across fifteen brands. And read the part most code lists leave out: which manufacturers publish schemes you can rely on, and which do not.
We are an independent repair company — not an authorized service center of any washing machine brand. Brand names on this page are used only to identify the machines we repair. All trademarks belong to their respective owners.
Almost every washing machine error code page online presents its table as though all brands work the same way. They do not, and that gap causes real misdiagnosis.
Some manufacturers genuinely do publish consistent, well-documented schemes. Bosch and Siemens share the BSH code family. Whirlpool, Ariston, Indesit and Hotpoint share a Whirlpool-group F-code system. Electrolux, AEG and Zanussi share a structured Electrolux E-code system. Samsung and LG each maintain their own consistent sets. For all of those, a code list is dependable.
Other brands simply do not work that way. Beko uses more than one indication method across generations. Candy has changed schemes between model families. Daewoo-branded machines have come from more than one manufacturer. Hitachi sells both Japanese-domestic and regional-export variants in this market. For those, a generic table may accurately describe a completely different machine from the one in your home.
We have set out below which is which. It is the honest version, and it is why we ask for your model number alongside the code rather than just looking the code up.
Find what the machine is doing, then read across to your brand. This is more reliable than searching a code in isolation.
Blocked inlet filters are extremely common in the UAE because of sediment carried from building storage tanks.
On brushed motors this is often just worn carbon brushes. Motor guide →
Check on a hot cottons cycle, not eco. Heating guide →
A leak code means the base-tray sensor has triggered. Leak location guide →
Suds codes are frequently a detergent-dose issue rather than a mechanical fault.
This is the part other code pages leave out. It determines whether a published list is trustworthy for your machine.
Reliable. Shared BSH code family, consistent across equivalent models. Codes vary a little between generations but the scheme holds.
Reliable, and systematic. The EWM scheme groups by subsystem — first digit tells you the area. The best-organised set of any brand.
Reliable on European models. Shared F-code family across Whirlpool, Ariston, Indesit and Hotpoint. Note American-built Whirlpool uses a different paired format.
Reliable. Consistent set, with older models using letter-E codes and newer ones letter-C for the same faults.
Reliable. Consistent two-character set across the front-load range. Direct Drive changes what the codes mean mechanically.
Not a single scheme. Display models show codes; dial-based models flash programme lights instead. Meanings shift between generations.
Changed between families. Some models display a code, others use flashing indicator lights. Online tables often describe a different machine.
More than one manufacturer. The badge has covered machines built by different producers, so internals — and codes — differ between them.
Variant or documentation issues. Hitachi has import and export variants here; Miele's set is not reliably public; Super General is largely display-less.

This is the most useful thing to understand about every code on this page, whichever brand you own.
A drain code tells you the machine did not empty in time. It does not tell you whether the pump has burnt out, whether a coin is jamming the impeller, whether the sump hose has a sock in it, or whether the building's waste stack is blocked. All four produce the same code, and only one of them involves buying a part.
An unbalance code tells you the drum was moving too much. It does not distinguish a genuinely lopsided duvet from collapsed shock absorbers. A motor code tells you the drive system reported a problem — not whether that is worn carbon brushes at modest cost or a failed motor at considerably more.
So the code is a genuinely valuable starting point, and it is why we ask you to send it. But the component still has to be confirmed by testing. Replacing the part a code points at, without establishing why, is the most common way a repair gets done twice.
Plenty of machines in UAE homes have no way to display a code. That is normal, not a problem.
Machines without a digital display often report faults through which indicator lights flash and how many times. The pattern is readable — photograph or video it and send it with your model number.
Purely mechanical machines have no fault reporting at all. They are diagnosed by testing the timer, motors, drain valve and switches — which is how they have always been serviced.
On smart machines the app shows the same code the control board is holding. A screenshot is exactly as useful to us as a photo of a display.
Off at the socket for five to ten minutes, then back on. This clears genuine one-off lock-ups, especially after a power cut. If the code returns, it is real.
Usually on a sticker inside the door rim or on the rear panel. It matters as much as the code, because code sets differ between generations.
A key or padlock icon is the child lock. A countdown is a delay-start timer. Neither is a fault, and both are cleared from the control panel.
Each page covers that brand's codes or symptoms, its known weak points, and the repair economics.
If you would rather work from what the machine is doing than from a code, start here.
No, and this is worth knowing before you trust any code list. Some manufacturers use a consistent, well-documented scheme across their range — Bosch and Siemens, the Whirlpool group brands, and the Electrolux group brands all do. Others do not. Beko uses more than one indication method across generations, Candy has changed schemes between model families, Daewoo has covered machines from different manufacturers, and Hitachi sells both Japanese-domestic and regional-export variants here. For those brands a generic code list can easily describe a different machine than yours.
It identifies the system that reported a problem, not the part that failed. A drain code appears whether the pump has burnt out or a single coin is jamming the impeller. An unbalance code appears whether the load is genuinely lopsided or the suspension has collapsed. The code narrows where to look, which is genuinely useful — but the failed component still has to be confirmed by testing. Replacing the part the code points at, without checking why, is how people end up paying twice.
Many machines without a digital display report faults through a pattern of flashing programme indicator lights instead — which lights flash and how many times. That pattern is readable, so photograph or video the panel while it is flashing and send it with your model number. Purely mechanical machines such as twin-tubs and semi-automatics have no fault reporting at all and are diagnosed entirely by testing, which is completely normal for those machines.
Yes, and it is the single most useful thing you can do. A photo of the display plus the model number from the sticker inside the door rim often lets us identify the likely component before the technician sets off, which means the right part comes on the first visit rather than the second. On app-connected machines a screenshot of the fault in the app works just as well.
It is worth trying once, and it costs nothing. Switch the machine off at the wall socket, leave it for five to ten minutes so the control board fully discharges, then switch it back on and run a short programme. This clears genuine one-off electronic lock-ups, particularly after a power cut. If the same code returns, the fault is real and the machine is telling you something true.
Send us a photo of the display along with the model number and we will tell you what it points to. Code sets vary between generations even within a single brand, so no published list covers every machine ever sold. We read the code against the correct model family rather than a generic table, which is exactly why the model number matters as much as the code itself.
Two photos — the display and the sticker inside the door rim — often let us identify the part before the technician leaves. That is the difference between one visit and two.
All three together give us the strongest chance of arriving with the right part. If there is no code, just describe what the machine is doing.
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+971 50 988 6591
Send photos of the display and the model sticker