Grinding, knocking, rattling, humming and scraping are five different faults with five different price tags. Identify the sound your machine is making and you will know immediately whether you are facing a free fix or a real repair.
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Of all the faults a washing machine can develop, noise is the one where the customer can genuinely narrow things down before a technician ever arrives. That is because each mechanical failure produces a characteristic sound, at a characteristic point in the cycle.
Two questions do most of the work. What kind of sound is it β grinding, knocking, rattling, humming, squealing or scraping? And when does it happen β while filling, while washing, only during the spin, or only while draining? A grinding noise that rises with spin speed is a completely different problem from a rattle that only appears at high speed, even though both are "loud noises on spin".
This is also why a short video sent on WhatsApp is worth more than a long description. Sound carries the diagnosis, and hearing it lets us bring the right parts to the first visit rather than the second.
Find the description closest to what you are hearing. Each points to a different component and a very different cost.
Worn drum bearings. Develops gradually over months. The largest repair on the list because reaching the bearings means splitting the outer tub β always confirmed properly before quoting.
Foreign object in the outer tub. A coin, key, button or underwire that escaped the drum. Cheap to resolve, but it must come out β left there it can cut the sump hose.
Suspension. Worn shock absorbers or broken springs letting the drum swing too far. Sometimes just an unbalanced load or unlevel feet β try redistributing first.
Jammed drain pump. The motor is trying to turn a blocked impeller. Often needs no new parts, just clearing β one of the cheapest outcomes here.
Belt or bearing. A slipping drive belt on belt-driven machines, or early-stage bearing wear. Belts are inexpensive; the distinction matters a lot for cost.
Object wedged between drum and tub. Something trapped in the gap and rubbing on every rotation. Needs removing before it scores the drum.
Water hammer. Usually the plumbing rather than the machine β the inlet valve closing fast against high pressure. Often resolved without touching the appliance.
Motor or capacitor. The motor is energised but cannot start rotating. Can also be a physically jammed drum, which is checked first.
Transit bolts still fitted. The bolts that lock the drum for transport were never removed, or were refitted for a house move. Not a fault at all β and very common in Dubai.

Between them, these resolve a genuine share of the noise calls we receive β at no cost.
Still noisy? Record ten seconds of it on your phone during the spin and send it to us. The sound usually identifies the fault before we arrive.
A rattle can wait a few days. A deep grinding noise from failing bearings should not. Once bearings break down, the drum shaft moves out of true and begins destroying the seal behind it. Water then escapes into the bearing housing and, on many machines, that turns a bearing replacement into a full outer-tub replacement β a much larger bill.
If your machine has developed a grinding rumble that gets worse each week, stop using it for large or heavy loads and have it looked at. Catching it before the seal fails is the difference between a repair that makes sense and one that does not.
The machine is run so the technician hears the noise directly rather than working from a description.
Level, load balance, transit bolts and filter contents checked before any part is considered.
Drum play, bearing condition, shock absorbers and springs checked by hand and under power.
Exact price for parts and labour, plus an honest repair-or-replace view if bearings are involved.
Full spin cycle run to confirm the noise is gone, and the machine re-levelled before we leave.
Noise, vibration and spin faults are closely connected β these pages cover the neighbours.
Showing a code rather than just a symptom? Start here. Decode Your Error Code →
Worn suspension causes noise and can also make the machine abandon the spin entirely.
A humming pump that moves no water is both a noise problem and a drain problem.
Failed bearings destroy the tub seal, so grinding and leaking often arrive together.
Everything we repair on washing machines β all types and all brands.
A grinding or deep rumbling noise that gets louder as the spin speed rises is the classic signature of worn drum bearings. It usually develops gradually over months rather than appearing overnight. Bearings are the largest repair on a washing machine because reaching them means splitting the outer tub, so it is worth having it confirmed properly before committing.
Usually not, and it is often the cheapest fix on this page. A metallic rattle that appears mainly during the spin is normally a coin, a key, a button or an underwire that has escaped the drum and is sitting in the outer tub. It needs removing, because left there it can cut the sump hose or damage the drum, but it is a simple job.
Knocking or banging with visible movement points to the suspension β worn shock absorbers or broken springs letting the drum swing too far. It can also be an unbalanced load, or feet that were never levelled properly. Try redistributing the load first, because if that solves it there is no fault at all.
A humming or buzzing during the drain phase with no water actually leaving is a jammed drain pump. The motor is trying to turn an impeller that something is blocking β very often a coin or a hair clip. It is one of the more common and less expensive repairs, and it frequently needs no new parts at all.
Two things cause this and both are common in Dubai where people move often. First, transit bolts: the bolts that lock the drum for transport must be removed before use, and if they were refitted for the move and not taken out again the machine will be extremely loud and will vibrate hard. Second, the feet need re-levelling on the new floor. Both are quick to resolve.
It depends entirely on which noise it is, which is why identifying the sound matters. A foreign object, a blocked pump, unlevel feet or transit bolts are cheap or free to resolve. Shock absorbers are a moderate cost. Drum bearings are the significant one, and on an older budget machine that is the point where replacement can make more sense. Our technician tells you which category you are in and gives the fixed price before any work.
A short video of the machine during its spin is the fastest diagnosis there is. We will tell you which noise you have and roughly what it means before booking anything.
Grinding, knocking, rattling or humming β and whether it happens on fill, wash, drain or spin. Those two details are most of the diagnosis.
+971 50 988 6591
Daily, 8:00 AM β 6:00 PM
+971 50 988 6591
A ten-second video during the spin is ideal