LG publishes fourteen dishwasher error codes, the longest list of any brand we cover. We work from that list, we repeat the two caveats LG attaches to it, and we tell you which of the fourteen are not faults at all.
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LG dishwasher repair in Dubai almost always begins with two or three characters on the display, and on these machines that is unusually useful โ because LG publishes more of them than anybody else. Fourteen codes, documented by the manufacturer, against the eight or nine most brands offer.
The full set runs like this. AE, shown as EI or FE on some models, for leakage or overfilling. IE, the inlet error, where water does not fill properly. OE, the outlet error, where water is not draining. tE for the temperature sensor. HE for a heater error. LE for the cleaning motor. PE for the water level sensor. bE, the bubble error. nE for a Vario pump issue. CL, the control lock. F31 for the heat-dry fan, F35 for heat-dry temperature, F37 for the auto-open door. And PF for a power failure.
Two of those fourteen are not faults in any meaningful sense. CL means the control lock is engaged, which somebody in the household did on purpose. PF is a record that the electricity supply was interrupted part way through a cycle. Both send people looking for a technician who does not need to come.
LG attaches two caveats to its own guidance and we repeat them because they are honest and because ignoring them causes misdiagnosis. The first: error codes can differ depending on the product model. The second: the guide was written to cover all models, so the images and the content in it may differ from your machine. That is why we ask for the model number off the door edge in the same message as the code.
We are independent, so nothing on this page steers a code towards a part sale. The order is the cheapest plausible cause first โ hoses, screens and filters before pumps, pumps before boards, and a board only once everything feeding it has been measured rather than assumed.
These six account for the large majority of LG call-outs. The remaining eight are covered further down, and the drain code gets a section of its own.
Water is not filling properly. Tap, then a kinked hose, then the mesh screen at the connection. LG asks for a supply between 20 and 80 psi, so pressure is a legitimate candidate here.
Water is not draining. Filter and sump first, then the waste spigot โ where a knockout plug left in place has stopped machines draining since the day they were installed.
The base sensor has found water. The machine stops filling to protect the floor. Switch off at the socket and leave the source to us rather than emptying the tray and restarting.
The heating circuit is not behaving as expected. Measured electrically at the element and its connections, not assumed to be limescale from a supply that is actually soft.
The sensor reporting tub temperature reads out of range or open circuit. Frequently the sensor or its wiring rather than the heater beside it, so the two get separated before anything is quoted.
The sensor telling the machine how much water is in the tub. A misread level distorts both the fill and the drain steps, so it is checked before either pump is condemned.

Of the fourteen codes, OE brings in more calls than any other, and it is the one where the expensive conclusion is reached fastest. Water sitting in the tub at the end of a cycle reads as a dead drain pump. On the machines we attend it usually is not.
LG documentation itself points at the installation, and this is the detail worth the price of the page. A sink waste spigot โ or the inlet on a waste disposal unit โ is supplied with a moulded knockout plug sealing it shut, so that the spigot does not leak if nothing is ever connected to it. Whoever fits the dishwasher is meant to knock that plug out before the drain hose goes on. When the step is missed, the machine has nowhere to discharge and has never drained properly since the day it was installed. That is an installation defect, not a component failure, and no part fitted to the appliance will change it.
The second half of the same problem is subtler and gets missed even by people who know about the first. The plug is knocked out correctly, and the loose piece of plastic is left sitting inside the spigot, where it drifts across the outlet and restricts the flow. The machine then drains slowly rather than not at all, throws OE intermittently, and behaves for exactly as long as it takes a technician to leave. Both faults are visible in about a minute with a torch, and both cost nothing to correct.
So the sequence on an OE does not vary. If the machine has never drained properly, the waste connection is checked first. If it drained fine for years and then stopped, the filter and sump come out first instead โ glass chips, olive pits, seeds, rice, foil shreds and the paper labels that float off jars during a cycle all collect there, and a loaded mesh lets a healthy pump run at full speed while moving almost nothing.
After that: the impeller checked for a jam, the non-return flap checked for free movement, the hose traced for crushing behind the machine and for the high loop it needs in order to lift water out at all. The pump is measured last, and by that stage it usually does not need to be replaced.
In apartment towers there is one further layer. Your kitchen branch joins a shared waste stack, and a restriction inside that stack surfaces as slow sink drainage, gurgling while the machine pumps out, and an OE on the display. If your sink is slow in sympathy, the fault is the building rather than the appliance, and we will say so on the spot rather than quoting for a pump.
Worth settling one thing that generates a steady stream of needless calls. Finding a little clean water sitting in the sump well when the cycle ends is how the machine is meant to behave โ that residue stops the seal drying out. If it is clear, level and smells of nothing, it is doing its job.
Several of the fourteen clear without a part and without a visit. Working through these costs you nothing, and we would rather you did it first.
Photograph the display and the rating plate on the door edge. LG states codes can differ by product model, so the pairing narrows the diagnosis far more than the code alone.
CL is the control lock somebody engaged, released with the key combination in your manual. PF only records that the power was interrupted mid-cycle. Neither is a fault.
If the machine sits inside its manufacturer warranty, call LG first. That work should cost you nothing, and we will tell you exactly this if you ring us instead.
Tap fully open, hose not kinked or crushed behind the machine, mesh screen at the connection clear. LG asks for 20 to 80 psi, so a weak tap elsewhere in the kitchen is a useful clue.
Machine off at the socket, coarse and fine filters out, rinsed and refitted until they lock. If it has never drained properly since installation, look inside the waste spigot with a torch.
The base sensor has found water. Emptying the tray clears the display for a cycle or two, but the leak that filled it is untouched and still inside a live appliance.
Less common, still published, and worth reading properly โ because three of them are drying complaints, one is suds, and two are not faults at all.
Read against the LG caveat that codes can differ by product model, and that the published guide covers all models, so what it shows may differ from your machine.
Three local conditions genuinely alter how an LG behaves here. The most popular local claim of all does not survive checking, so we do not repeat it.
Our trade licence 134585 is issued in Ajman; Dubai is a service area we cover. Cabinet Decision 66 of 2023 requires a documented estimate and your consent before repair work begins, and an itemised invoice afterwards, with a 15-day minimum warranty on the work. Ours runs 90 days.
Back to the main dishwasher page, or straight to the fault your code is pointing at.
Not sure the code you are seeing is on our list? Compare it across every brand we decode. All Brand Error Codes →
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What OE looks like as a symptom rather than a code, ranked from the filter outward.
Cleared and tested under power before it is condemned, because most of them are not faulty.
Spray arms, filters, loading and detergent dose ranked by real-world cause, plus the summer inlet problem.
A shorter published code table, read the same disciplined way โ eight codes, and no invented ninth.
Same-day cover across the tower communities where shared waste stacks turn up as OE.
IE is the inlet error: the machine did not fill the way it expected to. Start with the cheapest possibilities in order. Check the supply tap is fully open, that the inlet hose behind the machine has not been kinked or crushed against the wall, and that the mesh screen at the hose connection is clear of grit. LG also publishes a supply pressure requirement of 20 to 80 psi, so a genuinely low reading at that tap is a real cause rather than an excuse. Only after all of that does the fill valve itself come into question.
OE is the outlet error, and on a machine that has never drained properly the first check is the installation rather than the pump. The sink waste spigot your drain hose connects to arrives with a moulded knockout plug sealing it shut, and that plug has to be removed before the hose goes on. Miss it and the water has nowhere to go. Just as common is the plug being knocked out correctly and the loose plastic left sitting inside the spigot, restricting flow ever since. After that: filter, sump, impeller, hose route.
Not necessarily, and LG says so plainly. The published guidance carries two caveats worth repeating in full. The first is that error codes can differ depending on the product model. The second is that the guide was written to cover all models, so the images and the content within it may differ from the machine standing in your kitchen. That is an honest thing for a manufacturer to state, and it is why we ask for the model number from the door edge alongside the code. A code read against the wrong model range is a guess dressed as a diagnosis.
AE, shown as EI or FE on some models, covers leakage or overfilling. A sensor in the base has found water where none should be, so the machine has stopped filling and is protecting your floor. Sometimes the volume is small, from a loose hose clip or a tired door seal, and nothing has reached the kitchen yet. Sometimes it is more than that. Either way the code is doing its job: switch the machine off at the socket and leave the source to us, rather than tipping the base tray out and carrying on.
The premise fails before the code matters. Dubai water is overwhelmingly desalinated seawater, re-mineralised afterwards to a modest level, which makes it soft rather than hard, and we could not source the hard-water claim anywhere credible. HE is a heater error and it gets diagnosed electrically, at the element, its sensor and their connections. What genuinely changes things here is inlet temperature: uninsulated rooftop tanks have been reported at 50 to 60 degrees against an inlet recommendation of roughly 49, which truncates the heating phase and denatures enzyme detergents before they act.
Call LG first, and we will say the same thing if you ring us instead. Anything covered by an in-force manufacturer warranty ought to be carried out at no charge to you, and we are content to lose that work rather than take it. Where we are useful is afterwards, or as a second opinion on a quote you have already been given. Either way, UAE Cabinet Decision 66 of 2023, Article 26, entitles you to a documented estimate and your consent before work starts, an itemised invoice afterwards, and a fifteen-day minimum warranty on the repair. Ours runs ninety days.
CL and PF are not faults at all, and several of the rest clear at the filter or the waste spigot with no part fitted. We will say so on the phone rather than book a visit you do not need.
LG states plainly that codes can differ depending on the product model, so the model number printed on the door edge matters as much as the code. The two together tell us most of what we need before anyone travels.
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Send a photo of the display and the door-edge rating plate